Mapping the Gap

#25 Send forth the Ravens

Paddle-boarding on Lake Ohrid

After five weeks in North Macedonia, we are all sad to go.  I’m tempted to articulate a lot of unsaid observations, but we’re short on time.  Getting every little bit of us extracted from this three-storey house and packed for airplane-mode is a tricky task that is mine to slay this day.  We are also hoping to slip in some final paddle-boarding and another doner kebab. We have tortoises to bid farewell, too.

I want to write about our AirB&B, about the absent host who lives in Ohio, the cleaning lady who mopped the carpet, and the Christmas and Valentine’s decorations in living room. (Holiday anachronisms really get my goat.)  I want to tell you about the perplexing cultural stonewall we hit when a waiter refused to box up our salad leftovers.  I want to give some thought to the Albanian down-and-out population we have observed here in the streets of Ohrid. I’d like to write about the earthquake that woke us early one morning, and I’d love to explore ideas related to homing pigeons, broomsticks, baklava, nail polish, miracle-working saints, and UNESCO, but there isn’t time.  Instead, I’ll leave you with this funny little list and a few photos to finish off this happy chapter.  

I’m thinking women’s t-shirts can say a lot about a culture.  Here are a few I’ve been collecting over the past weeks.  I feel like they capture the chill North Macedonian vibe we have fallen in love with.

  • Not Sorry
  • The future is female.
  • Try again.
  • Sorry. I wasn’t listening.
  • I used to like that.
  • The Queen
  • Seriously. I’m feeling good.
  • Worthy Female

Overall, the vibe of North Macedonia is untroubled and confident. The people are sly with a smile, generous with their time, and welcoming to even the wildest of boys. They seem to nod to say “no” and shake their heads to say “yes”- gestures that convey a gentleness and agreeability that’s hard to explain. We are totally smitten.

But, the road calls. Dubrovnik and Split are our next ports.  We’ve got a week in each, and I’ve been doing my homework… which means rewatching Games of Thrones episodes filmed in Croatia.  Cue the stirring drumbeats and haunting cello.  Send forth the ravens… King’s Landing, here we come! 

Our favourite pebbly beach – Beach Saraiste
More Lake Treasures
The Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon of Ohrid. Reconstructed in 2000, this Byzantine-style church is on the site of a Bulgarian church from 900ish AD. Originally a place of teaching literacy, like a university of its day, it was a mosque while the Ottoman Turks were in this region.
I’m annoyed that I cannot find out who this is.
Another revered water source- much needed after a hot walk through our favourite tortoise-roaming hillside.
I had wondered why there were so many cracks in the bathroom wall until we awoke at 4am to the shaking of a 3.8 magnitude quake. Not huge, but it got us all researching how to respond to a bigger one. Now I understand these odd cracks. Just another unexpected page of the world-schooling curriculum.
The cork catching levels up.
The man who cooked many of our dinners. He might miss us as much as we’ll miss him.
This guy was waiting for me under our unused luggage this morning. The scorpion is a symbol of resilience, protection, hidden power, and the ability to emerge stronger from challenging situations. A good omen for the road ahead? Feels like it.

Blagodarum (thank you), North Macedonia, from your newest family of fans. We’ll be back one day. You can bet on it… We almost didn’t leave, actually…

Dede Wood
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2 responses to “#25 Send forth the Ravens”

  1. dazzlinga70302313d Avatar
    dazzlinga70302313d

    Yes, in Eastern and Southern Europe you go to a restaurant when you are hungry, so you’d better eat the food they put in front of you. No to go bags. And there’s not much ice either. You will be served warm-ish coke, and there’s not much ice in ice tea. I can’t wait to hear what you think about Dubrovnic and Split. I am obsessed with Croatia. If you can go to Lake Plitvice National Park from Split, I highly recommend it. It’s magical.

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  2. Sue Mc Avatar
    Sue Mc

    Wow Dede, it sounds like North Macedonia was your favourite place so far! We’ll put it on our list too! 🩷🩷 We’ve just settled down with a good cup of strong coffee, and are catching up on the blogs that we’ve missed. Xxx

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