Broken tiles and pottery collected from the streets and beaches of Hoi An this month
I think a lot of us miss half the pleasure in life, and this happens in two passive ways.
First, I think we could all get a lot of pleasure out of visiting the past a bit more. I don’t know about you, but I have had a lot of memories worth revisiting packed into my half-a-lifespan, and there is a lot of joy hanging on the vine waiting for me to claim it in the recollection. We take photos, and we “make memories.” We keep mementos, buy souvenirs, and tuck away keepsakes. Why? We do this because we imagine our present experience worthy of revisiting in the future. But do we ever take the time? For most people, it’s a rare day that we harvest these joys, and I think we should. No one else is going to do it for us, that’s for sure.
That is actually the greater utility of this blog. It’s not just about sharing our gap year with other people who are busy living their own lives. (I’m always impressed anyone bothers to read this.) The greater value is in preserving these precious experiences for future reminiscence- mine and my family’s. Even just the initial practice of reflecting and documenting these weeks affords me such great pleasure. When I put these posts together, I am repeatedly knocked into awareness of what a grand experience all of this is. Life is pretty intense right now. I need to pause, reflect, and let all this dense living soak in deep. I get to have a sweet pleasure in solidifying these memories shortly after making them, and then these neatly packaged images, captions, and reflections will be waiting for me in the future to enjoy again. And these are memories that would just be washed away by the ongoing flow of a life if I let them, like so many of my usual days. My partner, busy with work, laments this lack of time to reflect. Lucky me, I have this blog to snag our moments out of the current and preserve them for future enjoyment. I guess the trick is I’ll then need to remember to read them down the track. A task for future version of me.
Second, I don’t think we appreciate the pursuit of our desires as we should- the pleasure of not having yet. They say, “the hunt is sweeter than the kill.” Well, why do we stress so much about getting what we want then? I think we should savour the hunt and take conscious pleasure in the pursuit of our desires: the budding of ideas, the gathering of gumption, the amassing of resources, the swelling of possibility, the moulding and shaping of a concept, the thrill of imagination’s transformation into reality. Why only focus on outcomes and arrivals as the sole sources of joy? It’s a costly folly. There is gratification in simply imagining. Even the small things, like dinner tonight. It’s the thrilling and promising pleasure of “yet.”
It’s funny though. We have been taught that wanting is painful. It can give us feelings of lack and scarcity, inspire fear of failure, and feed obsession about how to control all the details. However, I think Desire is actually a beautiful feeling we often forget to enjoy. It’s the alluring ache of anticipation, the tender thirst for a new reality. And, Desire usually vanishes when we obtain its object, so it’s good to have some fun with this fleeting little flirt while she’s around. I find she offers a lot of good times if I can cast aside outcomes, arrivals, and out-of-reach objects as the superior sources of pleasure in life. I mean, “It’s the journey,” right?
So, as we begin to envision and map out the final months of the gap year, I’m trying not to squander these pleasing vibes of imagination. In the stolen moments of coherence that my partner and I have to conjure visions of our final days, I am making sure to delight in the plotting and prepping. As we scroll though endless accomodation profiles, seeking matches for our particular family needs, I’m making a conscious effort not to be bogged down by all the details. I’m accepting the tantalising invitations of Desire to remind me how magnificent all of this is, all the glorious futures beckoning down the path.
It’s a balance, of course. Eyes to the horizon and boots on the ground. Reaching for the heavens and rooting to the earth. Desire and Details in cahoots. This balance has a special magnetism that only polar opposites can activate. It feels important not to miss this sacred interplay between what we want and the How that makes it happen. It is the passage of an idea birthed between firing neurons in the obscurity of brain matter to a fully-lighted arrival in a solid and shared reality. It’s a spark to a bonfire. It’s a wisp to a wham. It’s the miraculous metamorphosis of human creativity- an invisible idea becoming a solid substance. It happens all the time. Often unacknowledged. Last night we watched the sun set from a rooftop bar, glass of wine in hand, taking in the city of Hanoi while the boys made paper airplanes and drank happy hour mock-tails. This was all just an idea nine months ago, a sliver of a possibility, a spark of maybe, a stolen glance at what seemed an overly daring consideration. Now, here we are. Seems natural as could be. Life is so cool…. if you’re paying attention.
It’s not easy though. It’s a lot, what we’re doing. Extended travel. With kids. On a budget. While working. And we have about 13 countries to go if the current plan prevails. It’s a lot to consider and weigh, a heck of a lot of details to track, but I don’t want to miss the pleasure in weaving the threads of this spectacular future because I’ve freeze-dried my pleasure to enjoy once we’ve “arrived.” It’s all an arrival. It’s all a memory in the making. It’s all a future reaching fruition. Desire is beckoning me to dance as we shop for flights, apply for visas, reserve our stays, and imagine the rest of this gap year future. Of course, I’m very much happy to oblige, and as I do so, I am also making sure to take pleasure in capturing all these quick-flowing memories while endeavouring to meet the ever-unfolding present with wakefulness. It’s a juggle. I’m feeling busy, but it feels good.
This past-present-future approach to enjoying one’s life is tricky, but it’s worth it, and it is a much-needed antidote to the on-going struggles our family. Things are not easy within whatever walls we are contained. That’s putting it lightly. We carry on, but it is not without daily strife, graceless falls, and the constant cultivation of a grateful mind by this mother who feels simultaneously like the life-raft to whom all the children cling and the punching bag to absorb all their wrath. (My partner does his bit, but a mother is often the preferred casting for these roles.) Anyway, all this pleasure theory is much less polished in the practice, I assure you. In this phase of life, pleasure is a riotous little rascal. But I still try. And there’s a different sort of beauty in that. It’s the beauty of aspiration, not achievement.
Here are the final photos of what did turn out to be a very good month in Vietnam. “Cảm ơn” from the Wood Family. We thank you, Vietnam. We thank you now, and we will do it again and again and again upon future recollections. What a magnificently-textured pleasure it has been.
May the Fourth be with us tomorrow (May the 4th), as we take that super popular Hanoi-to-Cairo air corridor. (Qatar Airways is the airline that makes this happen.) I’m having dreams that mould doesn’t exist in the deserts of Egypt. I hope it’s true.
We finally got on that charming fishing boat tethered to our hosts’ restaurant. The host father-in-law was the captain.It was a very quiet morning on a very quiet river.Only little bits of luck. We signed up for a cooking class that started with a market visit to buy all of our ingredients. The boys hate the sensory assaults of the fish and meat sections. They are done gag-reflexing in the early morning. Fair enough.The fruit and veg sections always delight though. “Eating the rainbow” seems easy.This guy chose Pho as his dish, and the trick to the aromatic broth is in these spices. I was surprised to learn that what I need four cooking utensils to do, the Vietnamese manage with two extra long chopsticks. No tongs, spatulas, spoons, or whisks. Just the sticks. I never knew that they put the meat into the bowl raw when making Pho. Adding the broth cooks the thin cuts.Van, our teacher, was another warm and clever character.This guy was “a natural” with this flat-blade peeler. I’m attempting to cultivate chef children. Worth the investment in these courses, I’m hoping.A glass noodle salad that turned out to be the best in the bunch.I got to make the Vietnamese Pancakes I love… harder than I thought, annoyingly.The money here has been tricky with all the 0s. By the end, I finally got it all worked out… but you can see the colouring can be confusing. The 10,000 and 100,000 look quite similar too. Room for big error. When 15,000 is about AU$1, it’s never as bad as it seems.The old tile floors were something I admired along the way.I also started collecting broken pottery and tiles. It was actually a “necessity is the mother of invention” idea because I want to make magnets from all the countries of our trip using found objects, but Australia makes this tricky. You can’t bring in anything that might threaten their ecosystems, so the usually appealing things like shells, stones, seedpods, and other natural items are off-limits. Then I started noticing all these bursts of colour. I chose one tile from this collection and then passed on the rest to our host family. I can see them incorporating them into a cement project or something artistic.We also found a ton of playing cards on our walks. Not sure why. There are lots of men playing cards by the river at night. Not sure why they don’t keep their decks straight though… love a good cultural mystery. The food alone is a reason to book a flight to Vietnam.A lunch of local Hoi An specialtiesThere may be a coffee conspiracy in Vietnam. Our theory is that they want to send all the foreigners on an expensive goose-chase to find coffee that doesn’t have a chocolate flavour. We were repeatedly promised that this was “only coffee.” In the end, we had to pay the big bucks direct to roasters to find anything that didn’t taste like hot chocolate.The rice paddies make such a chill atmosphere. Chillax in Hoi An.Believe it or not, I found a proper stick-fighting class. This man teaches adults, but he did a private lesson for the boys at our place. It was a real mind-bender for them, but a nice taster. Hopefully, they will be able to pick it up properly one day.Our stick-fighting teacher is also a local Tai Chi and Qi Gong teacher. He was leading a free session on the beach that evening, and I got leave to attend. It was both wonderful and disturbing. The deafening chaos of my current existence was painfully apparent. I missed the group meditation at the end (pictured above). Duty called down the beach.Trying to “give back” a little in each country, we dragged ourselves out of bed at 6:30am on a Saturday to do a riverside cleanup. The boys were certainly not a fan of this initially, especially when we had trouble finding the location, but a cheerful band of volunteers were in attendance, and, in the end, they found it to be a worthwhile effort. Styrofoam is the worst. It breaks into so many pieces. Ugh.The sad news is that local people burn the bags we collect. From land and water pollution to air pollution. Humans are such a pain… even the good ones.Oddly, a local coffee roaster wanted to thank our efforts and invited the group to a coffee-tasting at his roastery nearby. We all hopped on the motorbikes of our fellow volunteers and tasted the difference between Arabica and Robusta beans. This boy took to mopping the roastery and made a friend.Our Hoi An AirB&B family was all decked out on our departure day because it was the 50th anniversary of Reunification. The Vietnamese flag was everywhere. The red symbolises revolution and bloodshed, and the yellow five-point star represents the spirit of the nation- its people and their five main classes: intellectuals, farmers, workers, business people, and military personnel. An interesting breakdown of human “class.” Feels like they are missing some… and aren’t we supposed to be class-less here? Oh well. This family was of the highest class of humans in our opinion. It was a daily pleasure to be in their happy and industrious orbit. The bright star of this family was the littlest!The boys will miss her little toddling spirit.We arrived in Hanoi on the Reunification Day holiday in the bustling Old Quarter in the rain. We were classic wide-eyed, baggage-heavy travellers, looking lost and bedazzled by all the motion and colour of the night market.Beauty hides everywhere here too. But it’s different than Hoi An. Much more urban and rough-edged.Art Engagement. Tick. NSW Department of Education, see that?A temple entrance.These photo-bombers are so welcomed here… I fear they won’t be so appreciated in other lands…This was supposed to be freeze-dried ice cream, I think. We ate it with dragon-like smoke pouring out of our mouths… not sure you should do this more than once. A long-awaited ear-piercing. We’d agreed that he could get one, but we wouldn’t be going out of our way to make it happen anytime soon. This studio was about six doors down from our AirB&B. Couldn’t say no. Really sweet staff.Our doorway, anywhere, looks like this. We are down one pair of Crocs though. The little one got stuck in the river mud in Hoi An and sacrificed a shoe. We thought it might be a fair offering to the River God for all the crabs he caught during our stay.Hoa Lo Prison. We worried this museum would be a bit grim, but we left feeling the power of the revolutionaries who were held here as political prisoners by the French colonialists. Many revolutionaries were recruited and united here. Many escaped too. Of course, many suffered horribly and died fighting against oppression. It was a great world-schooling opportunity, a story played out over and over again throughout human time.We lit incense and talked about how the sacrifices of some people benefit countless lives far into the future. The boys really took it in. Enjoying the breathing space above the wild streets of Hanoi.Feeling the Power of a TowerThe Discovery of Mock-tails- uh-oh!Our Hanoi postage stamp bathroom.The Ho Chi Minh Museum in Hanoi was excellent. We wanted to go to the mausoleum where his body is embalmed and open for viewing, but it was a holiday, and the line went on forever. We developed our respect for “Uncle Ho” through the exhibits here though. You get the sense that the Vietnamese were well primed to fight off the American invaders (1965-1975), having so recently risen up and been victorious over the French colonists (1954). It’s not often recognised that the Vietnamese were also the ones who toppled the Khmer Rouge in Cambodia, stopping the horrific genocide of the Pol Pot regime. And that was in 1979, only a few years after their own devastating “American War.” These are a people of effective military might. Hard to believe when one considers how gentle, kind, and creative their society is. They knew what they were fighting for. They won it, and they’re living it. Total respect.I had the idea to catalogue all the dashboard decor you can see in the Grab rides, but I had the idea a bit late and only snapped a couple shots. It’s a fun practice to decorate your car, a little insight into the driver’s personality.Another nice practice here is that they serve chilled jasmine tea (to the left) with the coffee here. The idea being that it cleanses your system after the coffee. It does feel like that, actually.Keeping the postal services in business. Teaching these boys about the good ol’ days.A friend of mine recently said that her “family of introverts” would have a very different trip from ours. This photo of our boys sneaking into an airport VIP lounge came to mind. Indeed. I’m definitely on the “extrovert tour.” Big time.
Once again Dede, we absolutely loved reading your latest blog. Thank you so much for sharing your memories…. you are truly inspirational and are helping us break down the fear in our minds of overseas travel, winging- it style. The way you journal is so profoundly honest, we can’t help but be moved by your honest raw sincerity! We are loving sharing your memories, and are so happy and grateful that you are taking us on your journey! Have a wonderful time in your new destination, can’t wait to read about life in the desert!! Xoxox
Hi Dede, I’m not sure if my latest comment on blood #18 got through to you (I’ve only just sent it, but I got a message to say that my reply could not be sent, so I tried a second time, and pressed send but I didn’t get that rejection message back. So I have no idea!), or if there is a blockage from our end as well? Hope everything’s going well for you guys! Xoxox
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