#16 Artistry

The Enchantment of Vietnamese Aesthetics

Believe it or not, I find myself short on words this week.  Beauty has caught my tongue.  My days here in Hoi An have been a series of unexpected interruptions by the humble artistry of Vietnamese living.  Mid-sentence, mid-thought, mid-bite, mid-pace, I find my attention snagged by a style of life that seems unique to this spread of earth.  I’ll offer images.  A lot of them.  And I’ll hope you can get a sense of what I mean by the end of the scroll (if you make it).  Here are a few thoughts to guide your viewing.

There is an elegance, a vibrancy, and an order among chaos here.  Traditional and modern.  Form and function.  Intention and surrender.  It’s a beauty that doesn’t need to be seen. There is humour and reverence, labour and play, a youthfulness in the crumbles of age.  It is a welcoming of interplay between natural elements and inanimate objects, a marriage of beauty that has grown over time.  It is disintegration that is blooming new splendor. 

It is a disregard for what one would normally find an interference of aesthetics.  There is an unseeing of ugly that is achieved by a thoughtful inclusion of purposefully artistic elements.  It’s the beer box turned planter.  It’s the fishing net turned squash trellis.  It’s the old pallets turned into a wall. It’s in the patterns of broken tiles, in the piles of coconut husks, and in the quirky café décor.  It’s in the colourful rows of fishing boats, in the luminous floating lanterns, and in the steaming-hot bowl of Pho. It’s in the strings of colourful flags reaching across alleys and in the textures of tropical leaves.  It’s in the kaleidoscope walkways of fruit markets, the bright twisted wires of fluorescent market lights, and the troops of manikins guarding the omnipresent tailor shop storefronts.  It’s in the rust, the water stains, the dripping faucet algae, and the lichens adhered to the walls.  It is in the incorporation of objects used beyond their original intention.  Everything is reused, and everything becomes more beautiful in the re-usage.  It achieves a resurrection of life more beautiful than the original assignment of an object’s purpose.  There is a sense of carrying-on in these artistic gestures that feels like the undying essence of Life itself. 

I’m bewildered by how they achieve it, this communal artistic intention.  I feel drunk when I try to articulate it, like I’m stepping into territory upon which humans are not meant to tread.  Artistry.  I’ll just call it that and hope that these photos will convey some sense of the shudders and gasps that inspired the tap on that white Photo circle of my screen.  I hope you can see it.  

Good luck. It’s a heck of a scroll.

The Art of Coffee – Vietnamese Coffee Culture is not part of the late 20th century coffee craze. It’s its own thing, started in the 1850s with French colonial influence. Salt Coffee is my fav, but Egg Coffee was invented in Hanoi in the 1946 by a bartender looking for a milk substitute during a shortage. Now, it’s everywhere.
Old Town’s lanterns are the epitome of Vietnam’s charm.
Always suckers for glowing, flying things.
Releasing a floating lantern is supposed to bring good luck. They use these little baskets on a stick to lower them into the river.
Hanging in an O
It’s a dream-like atmosphere… if you can close your ears to the chaos.
By Boat
We did worry about polluting the river, so we didn’t buy any lanterns, but we were handed a couple by our boatman.
There has been a bit of an obsession developing around tattoos, so the boys each got a henna one.
The eldest took a video-editing workshop from an Italian world-schooling teenager. It was great, and now he is making his own videos and exploring new features and concepts.
15 Years Married
A South African man, who now lives in the Granite Hills in Australia, has a wine bar with a nice variety of wines and a killer cheese platter. (I so miss cheese.) Seemed a good choice for a sneak-off anniversary happy hour.
Waiting for a Grab ride. This “ride-hailing” app is such a game-changer for travellers. Much like Uber, you don’t have to have cash or physically find a driver. You don’t have to worry about change or negotiations or being over-charged. It’s made running around Hoi An so much easier as a parent. The driver usually arrives in about two minutes. So grateful for this development. (This photo was actually taken because I think my journey to being shortest member of the family is speeding up. I’ll be passed soon.)
Just a house on our little lane, stylin’ their own funky style. I love it.
This yellow is the colour of almost all the buildings in Old Town. They wear their patterns of age with such panache and truth, more beautiful for their ownership of these markings of Time.
Thich Nhat Hanh, Buddhist monk and peace advocate, is from Vietnam. He wrote the book No Mud, No Lotus: The Art of Transforming Suffering. I think of this a lot.
While I used to see my boys hunched over in the hypnosis of screens, now I see them hunched over in curiosity for life. Such a win. No words.
It’s all a feast for the senses.
This coffee is special. It’s Weasel Coffee, or Kopi Luwak. These weasels, Asian Palm Civets, eat the coffee fruit, and then poo them out, their digestive enzymes having dissolved the pulpy casings, leaving the bean intact. After being thoroughly cleaned (we hope), the coffee is supposed to have an extra smooth taste. The little one was not impress with this bowl of weasel poo.
The older two took a survival course which involved shelter-making and fire-starting. Yes, we paid for this.
They also had a raft-building competition. The boys were impressed with the kids who had sailed for a year and could tie knots without looking.
Then they raced the rafts. The middle one’s won.
There was an afternoon of water play, including paddle boarding and a ropes course that the little one joined in on. Maybe I should feel bad, but I take great joy in watching these hell-raisers strain and struggle and then plop in the water. Am I not supposed to share that?
Reverence for Ho Chi Minh, The Great Leader. This month, on April 30th, the country will celebrate the 50-year anniversary of “Reunification” after Vietnam’s civil war. Interestingly, we will arrive in Hanoi on this day. The Vietnam Military History Museum there claims to offer “deep insight into Vietnam’s great victory against French colonialists and American imperialists.” I can’t wait to take the boys.
Goldfish in a cafe table.
I think this is Worldschooling in action. Not sure. (Neither is the boy.)
I miss teaching English and defining the edges of usage and meaning. We had a good laugh about this message from our Hanoi AirB&B host. You cannot say one “must try” the airport transfer. And “2-way shipping” of laundry is just not quite right. I just love what is revealed by misusage.
School at our place.
The office this month. With a riverview!
We’ve had our first illness. Poor Dad. Luckily (I think), the pharmacy gave him some antibiotics over the counter. Not a great practice in general, but hopefully an easy fix for us. (grimace) This decongestant may be helpful too?
Streetfood
Magic Hour in photography is just after dawn and just before sunset, when the light is soft and golden. Hoi An, with its lanterns and market lights, must be one of the best places in the world to enjoy this.
Of course, the one photo where all my people look great, I’ve got my eyes half-closed. Oh well. Memory captured.
Talk about light-play.
Ancestor worship altars are set up on the street and in homes and business (which are often one and the same). Offerings of flowers, food and drink are laid out. Incense and candles call deceased relatives to the table.
This was our perch in Old Town to watch the world go by. We gave the boys small amounts of cash, and they had a blast bargaining at the night market. They kept running back, laughing out tales of their great bartering skills.
A little game of balloon volleyball with local kids on the walk home from dinner.
A popular Hoi An attraction is to take the coconut boats through the local “coconut forest.”
The little one is resting his arm on one of the coconuts. Not the “coconut” you imagine. These plants make roofs, the classic Vietnamese hats, as well as many other products.
We felt a bit guilty being paddled around by an elderly couple. They did give us a paddle to pitch in, eventually.
Our guides, who spoke little English, were the parents of the owner of the restaurant that runs the boat tours and cooking classes. They were quite skilled in making various charming forms from the palms.
Rockin’ the Palm Fashion
This is the moment I realised that all of us were using chopsticks. So cool.
The middle one is always willing to do art classes with me. We took a water-colour class that was utilising the Negative Space Technique. I think, by the end, I got my head around it. Would like to have thought about it a bit before, but it was a really chill atmosphere to play in.
The walk home from watercolour class.
This is a Vietnamese Unicorn- a symbol of good luck that is at the front of all the Ancestor Worship Temples. Each temple is dedicated to a certain family name, and you can only worship at the one for your family. Apparently, they only do it twice a year.
This was a group of disabled artisans in a historic building in Old Town. They do Quilling, which is when you twirl paper strips into coils and glue them together to make images. The kids loved having a go on the twirler.
This boy is a Pho Man- pho sure! This famous Vietnamese noodle soup is consumed by this guy daily.
This kid is a Cau Lau guy. And we learned ALL about it in a food tour we took….
Cau Lau is a dish special to Hoi An because only one family has been making the special noodles for over 200 years. The thick, Udon-like noodles are made in four “factories” like this one. The maker here started at age 10 and is now 66. According to our guide, he only takes one day off a year- a 364-day work week. As we watched the process, we saw many people drop in by motorbike to buy bags of noodles to serve in restaurants around the city.
The Wood-fired Steamer
Trays are stacked with a layer of charcoal which adds flavour and gives the Cau Lau noodle its distinctive brown colour.
Our tasting tray- Yum! (It’s usually served in a bowl with pork and lots of veggies and herbs with a bit of broth at the bottom to be mixed in.)
Next stop was a bean sprout factory where they sprout Mung beans in sand over two to three days.
The boys had a go harvesting…
… and taste-testing!
This kid was so enthusiastic that the owner (who used to be a secondary school teacher but took the sprout business over from his mother-in-law) tried to recruit him as a predecessor. None of his kids fancy getting up at 4am to harvest bean sprouts to take to market. Neither do mine.
The artistry here is just so unassuming. Someone had a beautiful vision and made it happen.
I really wanted to understand where rice came from- like, where on the plant. I know I could have used a search engine to tell me, but some things you just want to see the old fashion way with your own eyes.
Seems obvious now, but it is these tassels that ripen into rice grains.
These are snail eggs on a rice stalk. When the rice is young, people tediously remove them so they don’t damage the fragile crop, but when the rice is mature, they leave them on, and eat the snails that emerge.
This is a market stall selling the famous Vietnamese Pancakes. They are smaller here than in the rest of the country because they were presented to Hoi An royalty who would have about 40 dishes per meal. They needed to be small.
Our guide instructed us on the proper way to eat them.
These are Kung-Fu pancakes, which you hold in one hand and karate chop (or rather, Kung-Fu chop) with the other. They are then smashed into smaller bits and dipped in fish sauce that has aged for 3 months in this lady’s house. She’s had this stall for over 30 years.
Sugarcane juice. Not sure that’s what he needed.
In ancestor worship, fake money and cardboard clothing are burned in a symbolic gesture of providing resources and comforts to loved-ones in the afterlife. In the centre of this picture in that white square, you can see that one can also burn the whole cardboard Apple collection- iPad, iPhone, a smart watch, even the charging cables.
Yeah, I don’t remember what all this was. Sweet, warm concoctions often made of red and white beans.
This was sesame-ginger something-or-other. I was glad they didn’t like it… cause I did.
The natural brooms here work so well. This image seems so pastoral until you realise the woman has a smartphone on a stand next to her.
Another Hoi An specialty limited to one familyline.
Xi Ma is a warm, black sesame soup. Really nice. People took it take-away like a coffee. We sat on plastic, sidewalk stools that made me feel old.
More French influence – Bahn Mi is a sandwich filled with various warm ingredients.
More swee things- taro (root veggie) and bean balls.
This one is supposed to help you find love.
Hidden Gems of Hoi An Tour – do it if you pass this way one day.
Riverside scavengers are still at it.
Well, our hardworking hosts up and took a holiday to China. Good for them… sad for us.
Such a quiet, private beauty.
This waterstain on our balcony sort of looks like Vietnam. My mother always asks how big the countries are and needs a way to conceptualise. So, Vietnam is about the size of California. 82% its size. (Indonesia is about the size of Texas broken and scattered broader than the continental US. I’ll keep you updated on the American equivalents of countries to come.)
So much new joy is coming out of these boys. Worth all the effort to make this happen. (Not without ongoing struggles and strains though! Don’t get jealous.)

You can see it, right? The artistry is everywhere.

3 responses to “#16 Artistry”

  1. I just loved this place Dede. I’m glad you are loving it too x

    Liked by 1 person

  2. dazzlinga70302313d Avatar
    dazzlinga70302313d

    Good tattoo choices, boys!

    When we were kids, my grandparents made sorghum brooms and weeping willow baskets. We would watch them for hours. I have not thought of this in at least 2 decades.

    Food looks delicious, and the beauty created from the chaos is also mesmerizing.

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  3. WOW Dede….brilliance again!!

    My husband and I are just back from a couple of weeks down the coast, with a very limited service, and we’ve only just read this blog, so we are in catch up mode. The first thing we said to each other was wow, who writes like this? Only a literary genius! You truly have a gift with words!! Your Hoi An experience is inspirational, and has encouraged us to put it on our “list”.

    I’m going to let this blog settle in our minds for a couple of days, before we embrace your latest one.

    THANKYOU Dede For taking us on your journey, we can only imagine the time this must take you!

    Wonderful!! Thankyou!! Xoxox

    Liked by 1 person

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