Our time in Indonesia has come to an end. As planned, we didn’t actually see very much or travel around like a tourist normally would. We just lived a normal life (at a gorgeous villa), made some friends, ate some local food, and learned about a small slice of this unknown country. It would take many years to get a handle on the diversity strung throughout these islands. I think we’ll be back for another slice one day.
We leave for Vietnam in the morning to do much the same in Hoi An for the month of April. We traveled to Bali by ferry yesterday to avoid the celebrations at the end of Ramadan on Lombok, fearing they may delay our departure. It turned out to be a frying-pan-into-the-fire manoeuvre because we have found ourselves in the midst of the most unlikely Hindu holiday.
On our one day to explore Bali, the Hindu’s are celebrating Nyepi- the Hindu New Year. It is a day of fasting, silence, and meditation intended to cleanse the island for the coming year. It’s taken super seriously. There are four Nyepi restrictions: Amati Lelanguan (No Pleasure), Amati Lelunganan (No Travel), Amati Geni (No Fire), and Amati Karya (No Work). Sounds fun, right? No talking, no leaving the house, no work, no play, no food, no drink, and no lights. The airports and seaports are closed. No one gets in, and no one leaves, and there are no check-ins at the hotels. We luckily made it in last night just as all the traffic lights were being cut. All the businesses shut down, all the vehicles park, and a hush falls over the island. Everything is at a standstill from 6AM this morning to 6AM tomorrow.
The use of electricity, technology, or any entertainment is prohibited. There are no working channels on the tv. Apparently, the island goes completely dark at night as the people cannot even light fires. We just got a call to our room and then a room visit from staff to inspect our curtains because security was reporting light escaping from our window. You aren’t even supposed to open your blinds in the day time to let the sun inside. We are not allowed to walk around or even leave the hotel. (See photos of the glass door entrance below.) There are police patrolling to enforce this observance. I can see them from our window when I sneak a peek out of the pinned-shut curtains. The only movement out there this morning was a dog wandering in the middle of the highway, no doubt in a state of canine apocalyptic confusion.
While initially I was fighting off flashbacks of 2020 hotel quarantine in Sydney, it hasn’t been that bad. They make concessions for foreigners caught in the middle of this uniquely full-on tradition. The restaurant has a limited menu on offer, the pool is open, the staff are speaking to us, and we do have internet and electricity, unlike most people on the island.
While I wish I could say I was enjoying “a day of silence,” we are at the usual three-child volume and having a pretty good time. Nyepi is supposed to be a day of reflection, to consider the year passed and one’s aspirations for the year ahead. “The world needs to take a rest,” said the waitress at the breakfast buffet this morning. Indeed. I’ll take it. It’s a nice idea. I love a little pause to reflect and envision. In fact, our final day in Indonesia is a very good time to do so.
Mapping the Gap 
Leave a comment